LED Panel 30x120 cm 36W 4500lm (125lm/W) High Lumen 6000K Flicker-free The HOFTRONIC LED panels have a power factor of >0.9, which means that a large group can be connected to them. Would you like to connect more panels to 1 group? That is no problem with the HOFTRONIC panels. The HOFTRONIC panels do not heat up quickly and therefore have a longer lifespan of no less than 50,000 burning hours. The LED panels of HOFTRONIC are produced from high quality materials and have a better heat conduction than a traditional panel. Discolouration of the diffuse panel with HOFTRONIC LED panels is also a thing of the past! With traditional panels you will notice after a while that they are yellowing, which will also change the light output. You don't have to worry about dark spots, which do occur with panels without backlit technology. Thanks to the backlit technology, the LED panels are extra durable. HOFTRONIC LED panels are not like any other LED panel. No matter whether it is your office building, your hairdresser's shop or your shop. With these HOFTRONIC LED panels you can make any building more sustainable. These are LED panels with an extremely high light output at low energy consumption. The HOFTRONIC panels are very economical with 36 Watt and 125lm/W. Highly luminous LED panels from HOFTRONICĭo you want to make your business premises more sustainable? Then the HOFTRONIC LED panels from INTOLED are the solution you are looking for. With this blog we explain the advantages of choosing an LED panel.
2 INCH PROJECT DIMMABLE LED PANEL PROFESSIONAL
In professional environments such as office buildings, we can imagine that you might be wondering how you, as an entrepreneur, can illuminate your premises in the most economical yet energy-efficient way. This not only because it contributes to a better environment, but also because it saves us costs. We want to provide a room with lighting that is as energy-efficient and sustainable as possible. Whether for stills or video, the faster the shutter speed, the greater the chance of visible flicker.We are all more conscious about lighting our home and our working environment.
And when shooting stills, I saw subtle exposure changes from frame to frame caused by the flicker. It’s not visible to the naked eye, but it could require adjustments when shooting video.
But inexpensive household or commercial ceiling lights like this do have flicker that can be an issue. The best ones-the expensive models designed for professional video production, for instance-minimize flicker. This fixture is 80+ CRI, compared to a 95+ CRI found on a high-end studio light. The higher the CRI, the more consistent the color temperature. It’s also a lower CRI light, which simply means it’s less color accurate. Feature-wise this includes bi-color capability for dialing in a precise color temperature. The other tradeoff with a light like this, as you might imagine, is that you’re losing some of the functionality of a high-end professional LED panel made explicitly for video. Instead, the safety cable will hold it in place. This way if the glue were to ever fail, the light won’t fall to the floor-or worse, on a subject. I don’t like having a system in place where failure would be catastrophic, so as a backup I affixed a steel safety cable to the back of the fixture and connected it to the plate. So what’s the catch with a light like this? The biggest worry is the connection between the fixture and the baby plate. Plug it in, turn it on… et voila, it works! Next, I mounted the light to a C-stand, and weighted the stand with a sandbag for stability. After 24 hours, I removed the weights and picked up the light by the baby plate’s stud. Then, I positioned the baby plate and clamped it in place, using heavy sandbags for the necessary pressure to create a strong bond. (Two-part epoxy would be another likely candidate for a heavy-duty bond.) Following the instructions provided for the glue, I lightly dampened one surface prior to applying a thin layer of glue to the other. I’ve had tremendous success with the product before, and so far so good with this fixture. I decided that if anything could securely hold these two pieces together it would be Gorilla Glue. Marking on the back of the fixture in pencil, I measured from each corner to determine the center.īefore affixing the plate, I removed a small portion of the thin plastic coating from the back of the fixture, then lightly roughed up the surface with sandpaper in order to provide better adhesion for the glue. To do this, I purchased an Avenger 6” baby plate for about $15.
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